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Camino Day 27: To Oz

May 31st, 2016: Santiago to Negreira 22 kms/13.8 miles


Our first stop after a coffee was to go to the Praza do Obradoiro, the center of the old town. In Gallego it’s called “Square of the Workshop”. This is Oz, where all Peregrinos finish their Camino. Selfies, group shots, hugs and rolling tears are shared while onlookers survey the impassioned scene on the periphery. We had made it to Santiago. The Cathedral itself was under construction and all the scaffolding made for a bad photo op. I pondered how I would have felt arriving on the square had we not arrived by bus as it felt anticlimactic at present.


It was time to move onward. My hopes were that the Fisterra route would be less crowded than the increasingly larger numbers of Pilgrims we saw on the Camino the last few days. I was pleased to read that many Pilgrims opted out of the extra klicks beyond Santiago.
We did not have a guide book for this part of the Camino, only a rough map of where towns were located. Not having directions made this a refreshing element of the Fisterra route, as we just walked.


My legs seemed slower and heavier than usual. There were not so many cafes en route so when one did pop up, we made a stop. The trail was mostly wooded with towering eucalyptus trees that provided a pleasant, shaded walk for a majority of the day. We had dropped elevation and the days were warming up.

We took our time today. There was no rush. Life was good. There were far fewer Pilgrims. We leap-frogged back and forth on the path with another meandering duo from Korea.


A beautiful, dancing river materialized and we planted ourselves at a spot where the water melodiously frolicked and created small little fountains as it collided with the rocks. What precious moments to pass our time “adagio” as if this was the most pressing agenda item for the day.


As we neared the end of our walking day we stopped at a local bar for a glass of wine which they served in small bowls and filled them to the brim. Our steps were lighter after the stop.


We earned two top bunks at a hostel as most pilgrims had already arrived and were settled in by now. There wasn’t a self service kitchen so we did a walkabout town to find a place to eat. The choices were limited.

I picked up some socks at a Chinese store as mine were getting quite worn down. Chinese stores seemed to pop up like daisies in many of these small towns and carried a variety of knick knacks and an assortment of other odds and ends. The sun stayed up late, past 10 pm. Most Peregrinos were in bed by that time, some sleeping while others were reading off illuminated LED screens. I crawled up to my spot for the night and waved good night to Kashi atop the adjacent bunk.


Posted by Shantitraveler 16:51 Archived in Spain Tagged walking trekking santiago spirituality caminodesantiago

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